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Sufis, dervishes and Rumi

Before the ney plays, it helps to know who you are watching. A dervish is a member of a Sufi order, Sufism is the mystical path within Islam, and the whirling dervishes are the Mevlevi order founded by Rumi's followers in Konya. Here are the words, the faith, the history and the questions people ask most.

Close-up of a dervish's hands in white sleeves holding prayer beads, face out of frame, warm dark background
Prayer beads in white sleeves. The Sema is a form of remembrance of God.

Booking choice: The ceremony in a real Mevlevi lodge, from $26 per person. Check dates Tour details

The words get used loosely in English. "Whirling dervish" turns up as a figure of speech for anyone who moves fast, and "Sufi" gets attached to anything mystical. Inside a Sema hall they have precise meanings, and knowing them makes the hour far richer.

This guide sticks to named sources: UNESCO, GoTürkiye, HodjaPasha's own pages, Merriam-Webster and Wikipedia. It explains, it does not rule on matters of faith. Where practice differs between groups, it says so.

The quick answer

"Dervish" comes from the Persian darvish, through the Turkish derviş, and means a member of a Sufi order. Every whirling dervish is a Sufi; not every Sufi whirls. The whirling dervishes belong to the Mevlevi order, which UNESCO says was founded in Konya in 1273, and they are Muslims. The ceremony in a real Mevlevi lodge starts with the resident sheikh explaining all of this before the ritual, from $26.

What does the word "dervish" mean?

A member of a Sufi order. Merriam-Webster traces the English word to the Turkish derviş, literally "beggar", from the Persian darvīsh.

Merriam-Webster's definition: "a member of a Muslim religious order noted for devotional exercises (such as bodily movements leading to a trance)". Wikipedia adds that the real origin of the Persian word is unknown; one theory links it to the Middle Persian drayōš, "poor, needy". The poverty meant here is chosen, a turning away from the ego and from possessions.

  • In Turkish: derviş. The plural you hear in Türkiye is dervişler.
  • In the Sema hall: a whirling dervish is properly a semazen, from the Persian for "one who does the sema" (Wikipedia).
  • How to pronounce it: Merriam-Webster gives ˈdər-vish, said like "DUR-vish", with the stress on the first syllable.

Sources: Merriam-Webster, dervish; Wikipedia, Dervish and Sufi whirling.

A closed leather-bound book, a ney flute and an oil lamp on a wooden table by a window, dervishes whirling in the hall beyond
A book and a ney on a reading table. Poetry and music sit at the heart of Mevlevi life.

What is the difference between a Sufi and a dervish?

Sufism is the mystical path within Islam and a Sufi is anyone who follows it. A dervish is an initiate of that path, usually a member of a Sufi order. The whirling dervishes are one such order, the Mevlevi.

Think of it as three circles, each inside the last. Wikipedia's article on the Mevlevi order puts it this way: "Dervish is a common term for an initiate of the Sufi path", and the Mevlevis are known as whirling dervishes because of their practice of whirling while performing dhikr, the remembrance of God.

Not all Sufis whirl. Each order has its own practices and dress, and Wikipedia names several others, such as the Qadiriyya and the Bektashis. Whirling is also practiced by a few other orders, but the Mevlevi Sema is the form UNESCO lists. The terms you will meet at a ceremony:

TermWhat it means
SufismThe mystical tradition within Islam
Dervish (derviş)An initiate of the Sufi path, a member of a Sufi order
MevleviThe order founded by Rumi's followers in Konya in 1273
Mevlana"Our master": Rumi's title in Türkiye
SemaThe ceremony, from the Arabic for "listening"
SemazenA whirling dervish
MevlevihaneA Mevlevi lodge, where dervishes once trained
AyinThe music of the Sema, in four sections
Ney / kudumThe reed flute / the small kettledrums
Sikke / tennure / hırkaThe tall felt hat / the white skirt / the black cloak
ÇelebiThe head of the order, a descendant of Rumi
Şeb-i Arus"Wedding Night": the anniversary of Rumi's death, 17 December

Sources: Wikipedia, Mevlevi Order, Dervish and Sufi whirling; UNESCO, Mevlevi Sema ceremony; GoTürkiye.

Hear the sheikh of a Mevlevi lodge explain the Sema before it begins, in English and Turkish.

Check dates for the ceremony in a real Mevlevi lodge

What religion are whirling dervishes?

Islam. The Mevlevi are a Sufi order, and HodjaPasha describes the Sema as "a spiritual ceremony that contains religious symbols".

Wikipedia's article on the order notes that Mevlevi practices come in addition to the obligatory Islamic worship. The ceremony itself shows it: it opens with a sung eulogy to the Prophet Muhammad and closes with a recitation from the Quran. GoTürkiye calls the Sema "a mystical ceremony with religious elements, themes and detailed rules".

Views on music and whirling in worship differ between Muslim traditions. The Mevlevi Sema itself is a recognized ceremony, inscribed by UNESCO on its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2008 (first proclaimed in 2005).

Visitors of every faith or none are welcome at the ceremonies on this site. Sunil, at the Mevlevi lodge: "The small introduction and the prayer performance provided a window into Sufi philosophy and traditions." (Oct 2026)

Sources: HodjaPasha Culture Center, FAQ; GoTürkiye, Listen to Konya; UNESCO; Wikipedia, Mevlevi Order; GetYourGuide listing.

Are whirling dervishes Turkish, and what country do they come from?

The order is Turkish by birthplace: it was founded in Konya in 1273. Its founder's teacher and namesake, Rumi, was born in Balkh in 1207 and wrote in Persian.

The timeline, from the sources:

  • 1207: Rumi is born in Balkh, in today's Afghanistan, per HodjaPasha.
  • 1228: his family settles in Konya, then the Seljuk capital.
  • 1273: Rumi dies in Konya on 17 December. His son Sultan Veled and his student Hüsameddin Çelebi found the order, per Wikipedia, and UNESCO dates the order to the same year.
  • The Ottoman centuries: the order spreads through the empire, with lodges in the Balkans, Syria, Egypt and Jerusalem (Wikipedia).

Today, UNESCO says, the Mevleviye "can be found in many Turkish communities throughout the world", and its most active centers are Konya and Istanbul. Rumi's poetry travels further still: Wikipedia notes it is read across Iran and Türkiye and translated into many languages. Our Konya guide covers his city.

Sources: HodjaPasha Culture Center, Rumi & Mevlevi Dervishes; UNESCO; Wikipedia, Rumi and Mevlevi Order.

Rose petals on a marble windowsill, dervishes whirling in the hall beyond the window
Roses at a lodge window. The rose is a favorite image in Mevlevi poetry.

Do whirling dervishes still exist?

Yes. Turkey closed every Mevlevi lodge in 1925, but public ceremonies were allowed again in the 1950s, restrictions eased in the 1990s, and UNESCO listed the Sema in 2008.

UNESCO tells the story in a few lines. As a result of secularization policies all mevlevihane were closed in 1925. For about thirty years the tradition was kept alive quietly, with the focus on the music and songs. Today "some private groups are re-establishing the original spiritual and intimate character of the Sema ceremony."

  • The leadership still passes through Rumi's descendants. Wikipedia names the current Çelebi as Faruk Hemdem Çelebi, president of the International Mevlana Foundation.
  • The lodges are coming back to life. The ceremony in a real Mevlevi lodge is held in Kasimpasa Mevlevihanesi, founded in the 1620s and restored, per its listing.
  • Abroad, Wikipedia records Mevlevi teachers and ceremonies in Europe and North America since the 1970s.

Sources: UNESCO, Mevlevi Sema ceremony; Wikipedia, Mevlevi Order; GetYourGuide listing.

Whirling Dervishes Ceremony in a Real Mevlevi Lodge

The Sema in one of Istanbul's earliest Mevlevi lodges, with a bilingual introduction by the resident sheikh, an exhibition and a booklet.

★ 4.7 · 1 hour · from $26

Explore the ceremony in a real Mevlevi lodge Tour details

Can a woman be a whirling dervish?

In some groups, yes. Historically the ceremony was performed by men, and some communities now allow women to take part, per Wikipedia. Practice varies between groups.

The sources we could name:

  • The early order: Wikipedia's Mevlevi article cites Camille Helminski's book Women of Sufism: Rumi had noted women students, and in the order's early days there were female shaikhs and semazens, such as Destina Khatun, appointed shaykha of a lodge in Kara Hisar.
  • 1991: the same book reproduces a letter from Celaleddin Bakir Çelebi, then head of the order, granting permission for men and women to whirl together again in mixed Mevlevi ceremonies.
  • Today: Wikipedia's article on Sufi whirling, citing CNN (2010), says some communities now allow women to participate.

At large public ceremonies the semazens are usually men. GoTürkiye describes the December Sema in Konya as the turning of "the white-robed men". Each group follows its own teachers on this.

Sources: Wikipedia, Mevlevi Order (citing Camille Helminski, Women of Sufism) and Sufi whirling (citing CNN, 2010); GoTürkiye, See Konya.

What do dervishes believe?

That love is the way to God. A Mevlevi shaikh quoted by Wikipedia sums it up: Rumi tells us "to take the love of God to the forefront".

The Mevlevis "insist that love is central to Islam", in Wikipedia's words. The Sema is that idea in motion. GoTürkiye's explanation is that everything in the universe turns, from the planets to the blood in the body, "for this reason, Mevlevi Dervishes whirl with the love of God."

The posture carries the rest. Per Wikipedia, the dervish turns with the right palm up to receive grace from God and the left palm down to pass it to the earth, and with each turn says "Allah" inwardly. The black cloak dropped at the start stands for the grave, the tall hat for the tombstone of the ego, the white skirt for its shroud. Watch for the moment the cloaks fall: it is a rebirth.

Sources: Wikipedia, Mevlevi Order and Sufi whirling; GoTürkiye, Listen to Konya.

The silhouette of a lone dervish whirling, seen from far behind, against a warm window light in a dark hall
One dervish turning against the light. Right palm up to receive, left palm down to give.

How do you become a whirling dervish?

Traditionally, through 1,001 days of reclusive training in a Mevlevi lodge, per UNESCO. Today the path still runs through a teacher: Wikipedia says practicing Mevlevis study under a recognized shaikh.

UNESCO describes the old training: novices learned ethics, codes of behavior and beliefs by practicing prayer, religious music, poetry and dance, then "remained members of the order but returned to their work and families." A dervish was not a monk for life.

  • Who teaches: shaikhs, who are appointed by the Çelebi, per Wikipedia.
  • The turn itself: UNESCO describes it as rotating on the left foot in short twists, the right foot driving the body round, eyes open but unfocused.
  • Where to start as a visitor: a ceremony in a lodge, where a teacher explains the ritual. Many lodges answer questions after the Sema.

There is no public course to sign up for, and that is the point: it is a spiritual discipline, learned in a community. For the whirling itself and how they stay balanced, read why the dervishes spin.

Sources: UNESCO, Mevlevi Sema ceremony; Wikipedia, Mevlevi Order.

Watch the Sema where dervishes once trained: a 1620s Mevlevi lodge in Beyoglu.

Check dates for the ceremony in a real Mevlevi lodge

Frequently asked questions

What does dervish mean?

A member of a Sufi order. The word comes from the Persian darvish through the Turkish derviş, which Merriam-Webster translates literally as "beggar".

Is a whirling dervish a Sufi?

Yes. Whirling dervishes belong to the Mevlevi order, a Sufi order founded in Konya in 1273. Not every Sufi whirls, though.

Can women be whirling dervishes?

In some groups. Historically the ceremony was performed by men; Wikipedia notes early female semazens and says some communities now allow women. Practice varies.

How do you pronounce dervish?

DUR-vish, with the stress on the first syllable. Merriam-Webster writes it ˈdər-vish.

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Whirling Dervishes Ceremony in a Real Mevlevi Lodge

Whirling Dervishes Ceremony in a Real Mevlevi Lodge

★ 4.7 · 1 hour

  • Whirling dervishes ceremony
  • Bilingual introduction
  • Exhibition access
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HodjaPasha Whirling Dervishes Ceremony & Exhibition

HodjaPasha Whirling Dervishes Ceremony & Exhibition

★ 4.4 · 1 hour

  • Sema ceremony ticket
  • Program booklet
  • Bottled water
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Whirling Dervish Ceremony next to Hagia Sophia

Whirling Dervish Ceremony next to Hagia Sophia

★ 4.4 · 55 minutes

  • Ceremony entry with live music
  • Tea or sherbet and water
  • Smart audio guide in 8 languages
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A Sema in a Mevlevi lodge from the 1620s, introduced by the resident sheikh.

Check dates for the ceremony in a real Mevlevi lodge